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Redress has launched an industry research piece supported by the VF Foundation investigating the role, influence, and opportunity for fashion designers working for manufacturers in China and Southeast Asia. Get your digital copy today!

INTRODUCTION

Fashion is one of the world’s most polluting industries. Approximately 100 billion apparel items are produced per year, representing a 50% increase since 2006, with the majority of clothing being landfilled or burned within one year of production. The fashion industry currently contributes up to 10% of global CO2 and on its current trajectory is projected to use 25% of the world’s carbon budget by 2050. 

The current fashion industry's linear system, of 'take-make-dispose', poses a significant environmental threat. The industry must transition to a circular fashion system, which takes into account the entire life cycle of a product, reusing resources so that nothing goes to waste. Currently, this transition is slow and insignificant. Less than 1% of material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing. 

Much work is needed to transition to a circular fashion system, including transforming the fashion design stage. It is estimated that 80% of a product’s environmental impact is determined at the design stage. Therefore, industry needs to recognise and support the role, influence, and opportunity for fashion designers and design teams to become better informed and empowered decision-makers at the critical design stage to drive the circular fashion industry.  

PURPOSE OF THE STUDY

Redress, the Asia-focused NGO educating and empowering the fashion industry and consumers to reduce clothing's negative environmental impact by shifting to circular solutions, conducted this research to understand the barriers of implementing circularity at the design stage for fashion companies manufacturing in China and Southeast Asia, which accounts for approximately 60% of global exports of garments, textiles, and footwear; identify opportunities to support design teams in driving the transition to a circular model; and provide the industry with recommendations to inform greatest areas of opportunity for impact.

METHODS TO GATHER DATA 

The research included literature reviews and a survey (May 2023) which was answered by 195 global fashion professionals working within the fashion industry, such as fashion designers, creative directors, product developers, merchandisers, consultants, and freelance designers. Forty individuals also provided qualitative data through interviews and focus groups conducted in English and Chinese (June 2023). These included fashion professionals working within companies producing apparel for the European, Chinese, and Southeast Asian markets, along with five educators specialising in design and sustainability. 

RESULTS 

There is a circular design knowledge gap

79% agree, either somewhat or strongly, that implementing circular design poses challenges

There is a financial barrier for circular design

71% of all respondents say that cost is a resistance factor when choosing materials to reduce environmental impacts 

There is lack of commitment and collaboration from top management

“When it comes to implementing sustainable and circular practices, it is crucial for the top management to drive the initiative. The progress towards sustainability is ongoing and requires a top-down approach, where senior management sets policies and goals, followed by cascading objectives at lower levels."

“I believe that designers do have a sense of responsibility, but the larger role lies in how the organisations surrounding them enable them to fulfil that responsibility. Even if designers have the passion and desire to do something, it ultimately depends on whether the organisation they work for supports them or not.”

LIMITATIONS 

The current sample size may limit the degree of representativeness of the population data. Therefore, future studies could consider expanding online and offline channels and increasing the sample size.

The report is limited in its ability to provide an unbiased and fair view of the impact and barriers of these stakeholders in creating circular fashion products. Results may be influenced by the opinions of specific stakeholders, and readers should exercise caution when interpreting them. 

RECOMMENDATIONS 

Close the Knowledge Gap: Education and Capacity Building

• Build the foundation of "sustainability literacy" starting from universities by integrating related topics into education curricula

• Implement training programmes and cross-divisional sharing sessions to support designers in acquiring additional technical, business, and sustainability knowledge

• Emphasise the importance of accurate and honest knowledge sharing to design teams from fabric suppliers to facilitate more sustainable material sourcing

Readdress Financial Barriers 

• Promote longer-term investments in sustainable materials to increase availability and supply and to drive down material costs for all

• Reposition profit margins for strategic integration of sustainability and circularity into product design

• Invest into digital design tools to reduce burden on fashion practitioners, allowing them the additional capacity to creatively implement circular practices 

Create a more collaborative and supportive working structure 

• Unite the entire organisation towards a common sustainability and circularity goal 

• Promote top-down facilitation of cross-divisional decision-making

• Give sustainability leads more resources and empowerment to influence senior leadership

CONCLUSION  

It is well established that continuing with business as usual will have a devastating effect on the planet and that action must be taken by the fashion industry to reduce its environmental impact. 

While the value of a circular system is widely acknowledged, the successful implementation of circular practices requires supportive organisations and knowledgeable designers working collaboratively. To steer this change effectively, collective effort is required from numerous stakeholders to ensure that design teams are equipped to implement circularity. 

Without adequate support, designers may struggle to exercise their influence, even with the right knowledge — and will not be able to meet their potential in driving the transition to a circular system for fashion. 

To register for the report in Chinese, please click the globe icon on our website menu and select Traditional or Simplified Chinese.

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